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It is:

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• Tested under dermatological controlSuitable for all skin types; non-greasy texture.

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There’s a lot of buzz in the skin care industry these days about ‘topical actives’.

And while some companies try to sensationalize the idea of a topical active, from a pharmaceutical perspective, active ingredients (topical or otherwise) are simply the ones that deliver some sort of pharmacological effect to skin. When related to skin care preparations in the US, the FDA approves active ingredients based on research and clinical studies. Cosmetic manufacturers must adhere to the FDA’s regulations regarding them.

When deciding whether an active ingredient in a skin care product will be beneficial to your skin, keep in mind the following:

• Are the active ingredients available in sufficient concentration to deliver benefits?
• Are the active ingredients in a formulation that will allow them to maintain their stability over time? (will the product degrade quickly?)
• Can the active ingredients penetrate the skin sufficiently to deliver benefits?
• Are the active ingredients compatible with the inactive ones? Are all the active ingredients compatible with one another?
• Do the active ingredients carry side effects?

 Active ingredients include a long list such as sun filters, skin lightening agents, topical exfoliants, antioxidants, retinoids, etc.

Two popular anti-aging products with established active ingredients include MaMa Lotion and Green Cream.

MaMa Lotion contains a high concentration of malic and mandelic acids, two alpha hydroxy acids that in combination, are useful in treating acne, hyperpigmentation and improving skin texture.  Green Cream contains a high dose of retinol, a Vitamin A derivative, with considerable evidence to demonstrate efficacy in improving skin texture, reversing sun damage and diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Photosensitivity may be defined as sensitivity of the skin to a light source. And people with particular skin types tend to be more sensitive to sunburn. Photosensitivity can take a number of forms:

• Medications may make the skin more sensitive to sunlight; these include most of the tetracycline antibiotics, birth control pills, antihistamines, antidepressants and many retinoids (such as Vitamin A derivatives).
• Certain medicals conditions lead to increased light sensitivity. Patients with systemic lupus erythematosus experience skin symptoms after sunlight exposure; some types of porphyria are aggravated by sunlight.
• As well, all types of skin cancer are linked to excessive sunlight exposure, and the rare hereditary condition xeroderma pigmentosum (a defect in DNA repair) can accellerate this risk.

You may have heard the terms “photoallergy” or “sunlight allergy”, to describe many of the conditions mentioned above. However, there is in fact no actual allergy in the technical sense of the word.

Four-hundred drugs are known to cause lightsensitive and photo-allergic reactions. If you’re not sure whether any of your medications are likely to cause photosensitivity, check with your doctor or pharmacist.

The use of a well formulated broad spectrum sunscreen that blocks both UVA and UVB rays such as Anthelios or Cotz SPF 58 becomes even more important if you are using any photosensitizing medications.

Here are some of the more common photosensitizing medications, listed by generic name.

Society today regards a beautiful woman as one with youthful, unlined skin accompanied by large breasts with curvy (but not too large) hips to match.

Yet it’s interesting to note that ‘beauty’ has changed over the ages, reflecting that perhaps the idea of what is beautiful today is just a trend that will change as time goes on.

Consider that in ancient China, a 4-inch “lotus foot” was considered a sign of perfect beauty. Achieved by foot-binding, it involved breaking the bones of the forefoot and folding them forward, then tying the misshapen appendage to prohibit growth. This practice resulted in severe pain, imbalance and falls to affected women. And in fact, osteoporosis eventually ensued because women were unable to bear weight and move properly. Hip and knee osteoarthritis, chronic pain, and even joint replacement surgery were also experienced.

The ancient Romans, Egyptians and Persians considered sparkling eyes to be beautiful and the  heavy metal antimony was used to make their eyes sparkle. Antimony is a toxic chemical that has side effects similar to arsenic - headache, dizziness, and depression. Larger doses cause violent and frequent vomiting, leading to death in a few days.

During the Elizabethan era, women covered their skin with lead-based makeup, which caused peripheral neuropathy, gout, anemia, chronic renal failure, and disfiguring scarring, requiring the application of more lead-based makeup. In fact the use of lead-based makeup resulted in the misshapen appearance of Queen Elizabeth I, who banished all mirrors from her castle due to her upset over her appearance.

In France during the 16th and 17th centuries, wealthy women used belladonna to dilate their pupils. This gave users an “attractive” doe-like appearance. The unfortunate side effect was retinal damage, glaucoma, and blindness. Vermilion rouge, used during the 18th century, resulted in loss of teeth, gingivitis as well as kidney and nervous system damage from mercury.

During the Victorian era, a modest, natural beauty, restrained and without makeup was advocated. Cosmetics were used sparingly – colored makeup being reserved for prostitutes and actresses, who wore it only on stage. Hygiene and health were emphasized and women were warned against the toxic qualities of lead-based cosmetics.

The Roaring Twenties symbolized the growing freedom of women as they started taking beauty cues from film stars. Heavy makeup came back into vogue – rouge and painted lips were very much in style. And in the 60s there was only one makeup look: dark eyes paired with pale lips (or, by the late ’60s, no makeup at all).

Beauty is also cultural. Consider that in some cultures (Hawaiian royalty, for example) that women were force-fed excessive quantities of food to maintain their corpulence, a sign of fertility and power.

Conversely today in the Western world, many women diet,  induce vomiting, abuse laxatives, and exercise excessively to lose weight. As well, we increasingly seek out cosmetic procedures to look more youthful. All in the name of beauty.

Consdering what we make of history, what will history make of us?

One of the things that I do at Pharmacymix is research only the best products for my customers. And it’s not always easy because you have to read between the marketing hype and the science. The truth does tend to be somewhere in the middle.

If you subscribe to my newsletters then you will know a lot about the ingredients that constitute a good anti-aging skin care product:

1. powerful antioxidants like vitamin C and alpha lipoic acid to protect your skin cells from free radical damage generated by the sun and pollution
2. collagen boosters like Vitamin C and peptides that boost collagen production helping to eliminate fine lines and wrinkles
3. skin firming and tightening agents like DMAE that give skin a boost and smooth lines
4. gentle exfoliants like glycolic acid to remove dry dead skin cells resulting in a reduction of fine lines and the appearance of smoother, healthier skin.

I’m thrilled to have found a product line that meets all my requirements in Ultimaskin!

UltimaSkin’s anti aging serum contains:

• Alpha Lipoic Acid - one of nature’s most powerful antioxidants, alpha lipoic acid has the ability to protect our cells inside and out from free radical damage that has the potential to accelerate skin aging. In studies, alpha lipoic acid has been shown to work wonders on aging skin.
• DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol) - a naturally occurring substance that possesses anti-inflammatory and anti-aging properties. When applied to the skin DMAE helps skin look firmer, less lined and smoother. Skin appears more luminous and elastic.
• Siberian ginseng extract - rich in complex polysaccharides and glycoproteins, this complex helps to tighten and smooth the skin immediately. It will smooth fine lines and lasts for hours.
• Glycolic acid - gently exfoliates dry, dead skin cells to reveal smoother, healthier skin that lies underneath. It can also enhance the appearance of sun damaged skin.
• Tissue Respiratory Factors - a peptide that boosts collagen production to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and give skin a firmer appearance.
• Vitamin C - a powerful antioxidant, Vitamin C delivers multiple anti-aging skin benefits:
  • Boosts collagen production to improve skin tone, firmness, flexibility and elasticity
  • Protects skin from sun induced UV damage and photo aging
  • Evens out skin pigmentation.

As you know, Pharmacymix consistently offers special discounts and deals to all our loyal newsletter and blog readers. It’s our way of saying thanks for being loyal customers and a way to show our appreciation.

I was so excited after testing Ultimaskin’s products that I’ve started using them myself. And I’ve recommended it to many friends and family who are just as impressed as I am. In addition to the long term benefits that this serum provides, we also saw immediate results! Lines around our eyes, chin looked smoother and less pronounced. The dark circles around our one of my friend’s eyes became noticeably lighter brightening the overall tone of her skin.

Because of the impressive results, I decided that this was a line I wanted to carry at PharmacyMix and immediately ordered a supply. But more than just ensuring that you can buy the product, I wanted to offer you an incredible skin care product at a price low enough to try it without making a major dent in your pocketbook.

Brandishing my enthusiasm and hard negotiating tactics, I’ve convinced Ultimaskin to give Pharmacymix an exclusive 50% OFF the regular price just for Pharmacymix readers!

That’s right! For a limited time we are offering you the opportunity to get the whole Ultimaskin package at 50% off!!!

This package of the Anti Aging Serum wrinkle remover, Eye Lift Cream and Honey Soy Moisturizer normally retails for $185!

You can now get it for only $99.95!

View their store prices here. http://ultimaskin.com

We are the only store to have this special offer, we guarantee you the absolute lowest price for Ultimaskin by a wide margin. You can view the 3 product special by clicking on this link to view at PharmacyMix - click here. Enter code ultima at checkout.

We anticipate orders for this 50% off special offer to be very high and the amount of stock allocated for this exclusive deal is limited. We can guarantee this price only up till May 10th possibly sooner, once the inventory put aside for this discount is gone prices will revert back to the regular selling price.

Don’t miss out! Take advantage of this special 50% discount offer and get one of the most revolutionary anti aging products we have ever used. This offer is only valid with the promotional code ultima at checkout on www.pharmacymix.com.

If you’re a regular student of anti-aging skin care 101, you’ll be familiar with the topical ingredient DMAE (dimethylaminoehthanol). A naturally occurring substance that facilitates the synthesis of the neurotransmitter acetylcholine, DMAE is often touted as “a facelift in a jar.”

A recently published study showed that DMAE possessed a tightening action on the skin helping to alleviate facial sag. The mechanism by which this works was unclear. Additionally, the study concluded that DMAE possibly exerted an anti-inflammatory effect. Users of DMAE products do experience a noticeable firming effect and some report a cumulative effect with continuing use of DMAE.

Is DMAE safe?

A recent study examined the topical application of DMAE on rabbit skin and human cell cultures. Some toxicity was noticed on both the rabbit skin and cell cultures. What’s important to note is that the solution used in the study was highly alkalinic. This is unlike DMAE used in skin care products, which is pH neutral. When we look at various ingredients used effectively in skin care preparations – alpha hydroxy acids, retinoids and chemical peels for example – they cause ‘damage’ to skin in a controlled manner. Ultimately, however, skin benefits once it is healed. 

Given the way this study was designed makes it difficult to extrapolate its results to actual use.

What should you do in the meantime?

Look for products containing lower concentrations (less than 1%) of DMAE and closely monitor skin for irritation or other adverse effects.

If the idea of ‘a facelift in a jar’ still appeals, you may want to consider UltimaSkin’s new Alpha Lipoic Acid Lifting Serum which is formulated with Alpha Lipoic Acid, DMAE, Vitamin C and other effective anti-aging ingredients.

We’ve all seen the claims sometimes too compelling to ignore:

“Smoothes the skin as it firms, tones, trims and energizes.”
“Active ingredients to help reduce the appearance of cellulite and stretch marks”
“Melt away cellulite with our innovative serum!”

Often containing intriguing ingredients such as cayenne pepper and chocolate, it’s easy to buy into the hype. But can we really tone, firm, energize and get rid of cellulite by slathering ourselves with the latest potion?

What is cellulite?

Often referred to as orange peel or cottage cheese skin, cellulite is a skin condition that shows up on the body in areas including your thighs, stomach or behind.

Fat accumulating under the skin causes it. As we age, dropping hormone levels may cause the fibers that connect muscles to our skin to contract (shorten), which results in fat getting trapped between them. This trapped fat puffs out around the fibers and appears as dimples or cellulite. Poor circulation is thought to make cellulite look worse by causing the accumulation of fluid in the pockets of fat.

Though you’d think cellulite was related to weight, it is in fact attributed to genetics and aging. Cellulite is found on skinny and overweight women alike. In fact, 80 to 90% of women will develop cellulite in adulthood, primarily because our bodies and fat distribution change after puberty. Men tend to escape cellulite because their bodies store fat differently to women and their skin is thicker making the pockets less visible. Smoking, poor diet and lack of exercise are thought to worsen the condition - no surprise there!

So should you spend your money on cellulite creams?

Manufacturers often claim that cellulite creams work by ‘firming’ the skin thereby diminishing the appearance of the cellulite. Some typical ingredients include caffeine - purported to drain water from fat cells and retinol - for firming and toning. Although these are active ingredients when applied to the superficial layers of skin, they would need to penetrate very, very deeply to work on cellulite at the subcutaneous layer of fat below the skin. Most ingredients simply can’t get to where they need to go. The plumping and firming action of some ingredients will decrease the appearance of cellulite, but certainly won’t get rid of it. And you will need to keep reapplying to continue receiving the benefits. Despite what any one product claims, none have been shown to drain fat cells, get rid of cellulite or redistribute the fat.

Last word

If you still think that it might be a good idea to try out a cellulite cream, you should keep this in mind. The New York Times reported on a study by Harvard Medical School faculty member Dr. Avram in August 2005. After reviewing 27 years of medical literature looking for scientific proof that creams make a real, lasting difference, he concluded “there is no evidence to show that any topical medications improve cellulite,” in the Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy.

Though nothing will get rid of cellulite permanently, your best bet is also the least expensive one - exercises such as squats and lunges to build muscle.  Muscle creates a firm base that makes fat lie flat. It also boosts your metabolism, helping to shed fat that may increase the appearance of cellulite. And though it won’t get rid of cellulite, it will certainly diminish its appearance while also boosting your spirits.

Classified by the FDA as a wound-healing agent, LYCD (also called Biodyne), is a skin respiratory factor that helps skin cells to promote the healing process through the uptake of oxygen.

It was patented by Dr.Sperti in 1939, who named it Biodyne because it stimulates healthy cell growth. The word Biodyne comes from the Greek words bios (life) and dyne (force).

The theory of cell injury
When cells experience injury or destruction, some will produce hormones which stimulate cellular multiplication so that the tissues heal. It’s like a community picking up the pieces to help an individual in trouble. Dr Sperti’s group, who discovered Biodyne, found that they were able to isolate a ‘reproductive stimulating substance’ from the dead tissue. They were able to isolate three distinct substances:

• Those that accelerate the cellular metabolism of sugar
• Those that stimulate growth and reproduction
• Those that stimulate cell reproduction.

Collectively, these substances were named Biodynes.

Further research at the University of Cininnati demonstrated that biodynes could be extracted from heated yeast cells. This type of biodyne is called Live Yeast Cell Derivative (LYCD) and contains nutrients such as proteins, amino acids, minerals, carbohydrates, nucleic acid and other gene products. The active ingredient has even been isolated as a protein fraction containing a mixture of several peptides one of which is a peptide fraction that stimulates wound healing. Biodyne is known to be biologically active on skin cells. Cinical studies from the Cincinnati Burn Unit and Oregon University School of Medicine show that Biodyne speeds wound healing in burns and post surgically.

Biodynes (LYCD) are also known as Skin Respiratory Factor and Tissue Respiratory Factor.

Can LYCD relieve puffy eyes?

Though not clinically proven, anecdotal evidence suggests that LYCD can help to relieve puffy bags under the eyes. And some individuals report a reduction wrinkles. Research will help to either consolidate or discount these claims. In the meantime, LYCD may be found in Preparation H, but only from Canada. The US version of preparation does not contain LYCD.

While some oily skin types may be able to tolerate this harsh treatment (at least for a while), those of us with dry skin types will suffer with tight, dry skin that may become red, inflamed and itchy.

Products that lather, such as soap, most likely contains detergents which strip away the skin’s natural protective oils. These oils are essential to helping us retain moisture and is especially important to those of us struggling with dry skin. Though many soaps are marketed as being gentle, they are anything but. The same applies to foaming bubble baths and most shampoos. In fact, if you suffer with dry skin, be extremely careful when shampooing – try to keep any shampoo off your face when rinsing as this ‘soap’ will deplete your skin of its protective lipids.

Instead of soap, look for gentle non-drying cleansers that won’t strip away your natural oils and leave your face feeling dry and tight.

Here are some good cleansers to consider:

1. For sensitive skin
   • The La Roche Posay line of Physiological Cleansers – Physiological Cleansing Gel (normal sensitive skin); Physiological Micellar Solution (all types of sensitive skin) or Physiological Make-up Remover are great options.
   • La Roche Posay also makes Toleriane Foaming Cream Cleanser (normal to combination sensitive skin) and Toleriane Dermo Cleanser (very sensitive skin)
2. For normal to combination skin
   • Kinerase Gentle Daily Cleanser
   • John Masters Jojoba and Ginseng Exfoliating Wash
3. For oily and/or acneic skin
   • Neostrata Toning Solution (with glycolic acid)
   • Neostrata Oil Free Foaming Cleanser
   • Effaclar Purifying Foaming Gel
4. For dry skin
   • John Masters Linden Blossom Cream Cleanser
5. For all skin types
   • Reversa 3 in 1 Gel Cleanser

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First isolated from apple juice, malic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is used in skin care products.

Instead of a product that sits on top of the skin, AHAs are active ingredients that penetrate the skin, removing dead skin cells, revealing a fresh, new layer of skin. They are useful in:

• Preventing clogged pores
• Enhancing cell renewal through exfoliation
• Hydrating the skin
• Increasing collagen production, and
• Improving skin’s texture, making it appear more radiant.

In addition to the above, Malic acid is an antioxidant helping to protect the skin from free radicals and premature aging. It is also a humectant, which provides the skin with essential, non-greasy hydration.

Though not as widely used as glycolic acid, malic acid provides many of the same benefits with less irritation. It is particularly beneficial to sensitive skin types, not able to tolerate glycolic acid, or to darker skin types who may be prone to hyperpigmentation with the use of glycolic acids.

Malic acid may be found in a range of skin care products including MaMa Lotion where it is combined with mandelic acid, another AHA. It has been found useful in the following skin conditions:

• Evened Skin Tone, Including removing age spots & freckles
•  Faded Acne Scars
• Significantly Reduced Acne Breakouts
• Tightened the Skin & Pores
• Shrunk or Eliminated Blackheads
• Reduced or Erased fine lines and wrinkles
• Significantly reduced the symptoms of Rosacea
• Faded Melasma