There is some evidence to suggest that aloe vera extracts may be useful in the treatment of wound and burn healing, diabetes and elevated blood lipids in humans. The benefits are thought to be related to various components of aloe vera.

While the species is thought to have originated in Southern Africa, aloe vera is now found all over the world. The leaves are thought to contain two different fluids:

• A yellow/green sap that is exuded wherever the green surface of the leaf is cut is an irritant containing aloin, a latex-like compound. Preparations containing aloin are not generally found due to an FDA ruling that bans its use in over the counter preparations. Most aloe vera products today have minimal amounts of aloin (it is often removed during the manufacturing process)
• A transparent fluid exuded by the inner leaf wherever it is cut or crushed, is soothing and said to promote healing.

Like many cosmetic ingredients, the claims for aloe vera, surpass the evidence available to support it. Despite this, you can find aloe vera in lotions, creams, yogurt, beverages and even some desserts. Aloe vera juice is used to relieve digestive complaints. It may be found in personal care products including make-up, tissues, moisturizers, soaps, etc.

There is evidence to support aloe vera’s use in the healing of first to second degree burns. And, it may be useful in the treatment of genital herpes and psoriasis. Aloe vera extracts have demonstrated antifungal and antibacterial activity making it possibly useful in wound healing where it can help to reduce the chance of infection.

Like most ingredients with hyped benefits, aloe vera can’t possibly live up to its claims. However, it has been shown to be helpful as a water binding agent making it useful when added to moisturizers.

Inert (inactive), man-made compounds, silicones have a wide range of applications as sealants, lubricants, coatings, etc. They are also used medically (silicone sheets and gels can heal scars, for example, as in a product like Dermatix Ultra) and in a number of personal care products including shampoos, hair conditioners and hair gels.

There are two silicones primarily used in personal care – dimethicone (also known as polydimethylsiloxane) and cyclomethicone. Dimethicone can be found widely in skin moisturizers as a skin protectant – it also imparts a silky feeling to skin. Both silicones sit on top of the skin and create a barrier helping to limit transdermal water loss. In hair care products dimethicone is used to coat the hair’s surface of the hair providing lubrication and helping to improve combing providing detangling, and thus, hair loss and breakage.. Studies have shown that due to their large molecular size that the silicones are not absorbed into the body and that they are safe when used at the levels currently found in cosmetic preparations.

There’s always another side… and critics of the silicones maintain that they accumulate in humans and wildlife according to the Environmental Working Group). While not known as carcinogens, other critics suggest that silicones should be avoided since they ‘trick’ our bodies into thinking that skin or hair is healthy, when it may not be.

I have discussed much more harmful skin care ingredients and given the research available, the silicones seem to sit on the safer vs the more dangerous side. Still, the choice is yours. And if you wish to avoid silicones then read labels carefully. Even some natural and organic skin care companies include them in their formulations.

How Does Sun Damaged Skin Look?

Think of a baby’s smooth, unlined, firm and unblemished skin; this is what healthy and undamaged skin looks like. Sun damage results in many skin changes including:

• Fine and coarse wrinkles
• Skin roughness; sometimes a leathery texture is observed
• Loss of skin tone and elasticity
• Dark patches or increased pigmentation

Avoiding Sun Damage

Your best strategy is to try and avoid (or at the very least, minimize) sun damage by practicing sun avoidance and sun protection with the regular use of sunscreens that block against the sun’s UVA and UVB rays. Keep in mind that while UVB rays lead to acute sun damage (Burning), that UVA rays lead to chronic sun damage (Aging). Since UVA rays are prevalent year round even on the coldest, cloudiest day, you should aim to apply sunscreen every day, year round if you wish to keep your skin looking young and healthy. Consdier one of these UVA/UVB blocking sunscreens here.

Treating Sun Damage

If your youth was filled with carefree days at the beach or extended tropical holidays, without following smart sun habits, then you may be a candidate for reversing some of the damage caused by the sun. There are a number of products and treatments that can help, all to varying degrees. Here is what to consider:

1. Hydroquinone creams and other skin lighteners can help to even out pigmentation and help with dark spots. View all skin lightening agents here.
2. Retinoids including prescription only products such as Retin A have been shown to reverse sun damage. A good non-prescription alternative is retinol, found in Green Cream, and which many individuals find easier to tolerate than prescription options.
3. Alpha hydroxy acids can help to slough off dead, dry skin minimizing the appearance of fine lines and rough skin. Try Neostrata Skin Renewal Peel Solution
4. Chemical peels. Stronger than at home peels (like Neostrata Skin Renewal Peel Solution above), chemical peels remove the top layer of skin cells and can help to regenerate new skin cell growth. Some peels can work deeper. Always work with a qualified professional to maximize results and minimize side effects. If you have darker skin, you may be at risk for increased pigmentation with a peel so consider one carefully.
5. Resurfacing lasers. Several types are available, depending on the extent and depth of the sun damage. Consult with a qualified professional to determine the one most suitable for your needs.
6. Antioxidants including Vitamin C and green tea can help to ward off further sun damage. Consider layering under your sunscreen daily.

Studies have shown that when taken orally that resveratrol delivers cardiovascular benefits and may benefit those with Alzheimer’s disease. In addition, it has been shown to delay the initiation, promotion and progression of cancer. When it comes to skin care, resveratrol’s strong antioxidant properties as well as its ability to calm inflammation, have made it a contender for inclusion into a range of formulations.

More research on resveratrol would be welcome, but it is certainly an ingredient to watch out for. One thing to keep in mind is that there is some research to show that the topical application of resveratrol is associated with cell death if skin is exposed to sunlight. Given this, you may want to consider applying any resveratrol formulations at night or on days when you will be staying indoors.

Because so many things in the cosmetics industry lack regulation, descriptions for similar products can differ amongst manufacturers, adding to the confusion. It’s worthwhile to note that while there are differences between and definitions for the terms serum, cream, lotion or a gel that companies are at liberty to use whatever descriptors they want. So a serum in one company may be quite different to a serum formulation made by another company.

In general, creams are a mixture of oil with water. Creams are meant to be moisturizing and may contain active ingredients such as antioxidants or skin lighteners. Creams are best suited for normal and dry skin types and often useful in body care products.

Lotions (often called fluids or fluids) are very similar to creams in that they contain both water and oil. Lighter in consistency than creams, lotions are suitable for most skin types. However, individuals with oily skin may find them too heavy. Like creams, lotions are a good way to deliver topical active ingredients.

Very much in fashion these days, serums may be watery or thicker liquids, often (but not always) clear in color. Serums are water based making them light in consistency. They are easily and quickly absorbed into the skin and provide an excellent way to deliver topical ingredients including Vitamin C, peptides, alpha hydroxy acids, retinols. Serums may be layered under other serums as well as creams or lotions making them a very flexible product to incorporate into your skin care regimen. Serums are tolerated well by all skin types as long as the individual is not sensitive to any of the ingredients.

Gels by definition are liquids that look and behave like solids in a jelly-like manner. They are an effective way to deliver topical active ingredients that can be tolerated by most skin types.

Here are some of our top sellers in each category:

Creams

• La Roche Posay Redermic – collagen boosting Vitamin C and madecassoside combine with hyaluronic acid. Ideal for aging skin
• Anthelios XL SPF 60 – our best selling Anthelios sunscreen
• Green Cream – high potency retinol in a stable formulation delivers many skin benefits

Lotions

• Epilyt Lotion – lactic acid, propylene glycol and glycerin provide relief for itchy, dry skin
• Anthelios Fluide Extreme SPF 50+ - this top selling Mexoryl sunscreen delivers UVA and UVB protection
• Reversa Skin Smoothing Body Lotion – 10% glycolic acid helps to deliver soft, smooth skin

Serum

• M2 HP Refinish Serum – mandelic and malic acids provide gentle exfoliation to help acne, scars and oily skin
• Neostrata Dark Circle Night Serum – Vitamin K and retinol help to combat under eye dark circles
• Reversa Antioxidant Booster Serum – fight free radical damage that can age skin

Gels

• Neostrata HQ Gel Plus – 4% hydroquinone plus glycolic acid will help to fight hyperpigmentation
• Clarex Oil Control Gel – control the shin associated with oily skin
• Dermatix Ultra Gel – Vitamin C and silicone combine in this combination clinically proven to help fade scars

La Roche Posay Core Principles

Focusing on safety and efficacy, La Roche Posay follows these basic principles:

• Hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic skincare
• Highly concentrated dermatological ingredients
• With soothing anti-oxidant thermal spring water
• No fragrances or ingredients that potentially cause irritation
• Ingredients limited to the strictly necessary
• All products tested on the most sensitive skins
• Tightly packaged under sterile conditions

La Roche Posay Offers A Full Product Range For All Skin Needs

1. Sun Protection. All skin experts agree that the sun is responsible for over 80% of skin aging, which is why daily protection from UVA and UVB rays is so important. Anthelios sunscreens are integral to La Roche Posay skin care
2. Oily Skin/Acne Prone. The Effaclar line of products  offers solutions designed to help reduce blackheads, control breakouts, and improve skin texture.
3. Aging Skin. Aging brings about a reduced skin cell turnover, less collagen production and an increase in unwanted pigmentation. The result may be fine lines, wrinkles and dark spots. A range of solutions including Active C, Redermic, Mela D, Substiane and Derm AOX are available.
4. Sensitive Skin. Skin that reacts to products or other external factors must be treated gently by avoiding fragrances, preservatives and other potential allergens. Toleriane is fragrance-free and formulated especially for intolerant skin
5. Reactive/Red Skin. Delicate skin that reddens easily can be aggravated by environmental stress and surface irritation resulting in an embarrassed or boiled appearance. Neutralize redness and restore comfort to your skin with La Roche Posay. Rosaliac helps neutralize, soothe and moisturize skin prone to redness.
6. Dry To Severely Dry Skin. Your skin is protected by a layer made up of water and lipids. When certain lipids are lacking, this natural barrier is weakened and water is allowed to escape, leaving skin susceptible to outside irritants. La Roche-Posay helps restore this protective layer and skin is rehydrated, soft, and supple. Hydraphase offers 24-hour moisturization for dehydrated skin. Nutritic delivers transforming facial care for dry and severely dry skin. Lipikar moisturizes dry body skin by restoring natural lipids to the cutaneous barrier.

View all La Roche Posay products here.

What The Regulations Say

When it comes to skin care, the US Food and Drug Administration defines two terms - cosmetics and drugs. Cosmetics are defined as “articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body…for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance” [FD&C Act, sec. 201(i)]. Included in this definition are skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup preparations, shampoos, permanent waves, hair colors, toothpastes, and deodorants, as well as any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. Drugs are defined, in part, by their intended use “articles intended for use in the diagnosis, cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease” and “articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man or other animals” [FD&C Act, sec. 201(g)(1)].

The FDA does not regulate the term cosmeceutical.

In Canada, Health Canada regulates The Food and Drugs Act and Cosmetic Regulations which outline general safety, labelling and notification requirements. This act defines a cosmetic as: “any substance or mixture of substances, manufactured, sold or represented for use in cleansing, improving or altering the complexion, skin, hair or teeth and includes deodorants and perfumes.” The definition includes (but is not limited to) soap, grooming products for animals, and cosmetics used by professional esthetic services (e.g. facial masks, manicure preparations, hair dye). It also encompasses bulk products used by institutional services (e.g. handsoap in school restrooms). If a product makes a therapeutic claim to prevent or treat disease, it is classified as a drug under the Food and Drugs Act and therefore requires a drug identification number (DIN). Products containing ingredients of natural origin with a therapeutic function or claim are Natural Health Products (NHPs) under the authority of Health Canada’s Natural Health Products Directorate (NHPD). Each NHP must possess a Natural Product Number (NPN).

Like the FDA, Health Canada does not regulate the term cosmeceutical.

In both countries, a product can be both a cosmetic and a drug as the same time (consider a medicated dandruff shampoo that cleanses the hair as well as helps to treat dandruff). While the term cosmeceutical is not recognized by the law, marketers will have us believe that it is a topically applied product that has ‘druglike’ activity.

What does this mean for you? Buyer beware; this is where common sense will be your best ally.

Most skin care products are a mixture of active ingredients – the ones that will produce a result and inactive ingredients – the ones that help to stabilize it, preserve it or make it into a cream, lotion or serum. In order for a skin care product to work, it must contain enough of the active ingredient(s) to deliver results and it must be absorbed by the skin. Since our skin changes over time, with the seasons and due to external factors such as temperature and humidity its ability to absorb active ingredients may vary. As well, the absorption and activity of any product is also influenced by how much you use, when you apply it and whether you use it with other products or not.

Here are some tips to ensure you’re getting the most out of your skin care products:

1. Cleanse your face first. Getting rid of make-up removes substances that may interfere with the absorption of active ingredients. Some products work better on moist skin (moisturizers that help to seal in moisture), while others work better on dry skin (alpha hydroxy acids, for example, whose effects may be diluted by water).
2. Ingredients are absorbed better on warm skin vs cold skin. Try splashing some warm (never hot) water on skin prior to application.
3. Exfoliate regularly to help remove the dead, dry skin cells that sit on top of skin. This helps active ingredients penetrate more effectively. Consider chemical exfoliants as found in products such as M2 HP Refinish Serum or manual exfoliants that provide gentle scrubbing action. View our full selection of exfoliants here.
4. Apply with short firm, strokes to help spread the product and assist its absorption. Never pull, rub or be harsh as this can damage skin.
5. Do not wipe your face after applying your product as this will just remove it.

How much to apply? A pea sized amount for the face should be more than enough. Apply too much and it will just sit on top of skin; you can only absorb so much. An exception to this is for sunscreen - you never can apply too much.

Keep in mind that some skin care products will not deliver results no matter how you apply them – they may not contain enough of the active ingredient, have lost their potency or be ineffective for whatever reason. And, some skin care products will deliver results for your best friend, but not for you no matter how it’s been applied. However, if you have purchased a well formulated product and it’s not delivering the results expected, you may want to revisit your application technique.

Though many of us are familiar with the term sunblock, the word is falling out of favor because it can be misleading. Sunblock is often used to describe sun protecting formulations composed of zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide, two inert chemicals that work by sitting on top of the skin’s surface to block UV rays. When we think of a sunblock, we often assume that they block 100% of the sun’s UV rays. However, no product is capable of offering 100% protection from UV rays so some will still be hitting skin.

A sunscreen, on the other hand, is often meant to describe products that contain chemical sun filtering agents such as Mexoryl SX or Mexoryl XL. They work by absorbing UV rays and rendering them harmless. Like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, chemical sun filters are not capable of blocking 100% of UV rays.

Since no topical product is capable of offering 100% protection against UV rays, the term sunblock is not only misleading, but potentially dangerous. As a guideline, look at a product’s Sun Protection Factor rating (SPF). In general an SPF of 15 blocks around 94% of UVB rays; SPF 30 delivers 97% protection and SPF 60 around 99%. SPF is not an indication of UVA protection so look for ingredients including zinc oxide, Mexoryl SX, Tinosorb M and Tinosorb S and stabilized avobenzone to ensure that your sun protection formula is delivering both UVA and UVB protection.

And whether you choose to protect yourself with sunblock or sunscreen, keep in mind that these products are only one part of helping to protect you and your family in the sun:

1. Avoid sun exposure during peak hours between 10am and 4 pm
2. Seek shade and cover up where possible
3. Use sunglasses to protect eyes
4. Use a UVA/UVB blocking sunscreen with a minimum of SPF 15 daily year round to prevent against sunburns and long term skin damage such as age spots, loss of skin elasticity and some types of skin cancers.

View our full range of sunscreens here.

We are warned that beauty products, like food, do not last forever. They have shelf lives and once past their ‘best before’ dates, cosmetics are a haven for bacteria, which can then be transferred to skin. While the article quoted a study showing that the average woman’s cosmetic bag contains items that are on average four years old, it also found that many women were hanging on to items that were up to 15 years old beyond their best before dates.

In particular, mascara wands should be discarded six months after opening; lipsticks after 24 months and eyeshadows and blushers within 18 to 24 months after opening. Skin care products aren’t immune either. In an earlier post, I outlined when to throw away moisturizers, sunscreens and other personal care products. In addition to becoming contaminated, they may also become ineffective or more harsh when used beyond their shelf life.

Europe uses a system called PAO (Period After Opening), which are symbols found on personal care products indicating how many months after opening a product should be discarded. Research showed, however, that almost 90% of women do not know such information exists, cannot understand it, or simply cannot read the often tiny writing. Unfortunately, no such system currently exists in North America. Read the full article here.