Pharmacymix.com, Skin Care Pharmacy and Blog Specializing in Anthelios and Mexoryl Sunscreens

Marketing Skin Care - The ‘New’ Science

If you were to read through skin care ads, you’d be convinced that cosmetics companies spent far more time coming up with catchy slogans and new phrases than in actually developing products that worked.

Stem cells. Gene therapy. Immune protection. Growth hormone. The latest concepts in science are making their way into ad campaigns for beauty products.

This month, for example, advertisements for the Olay Regenerist line of face treatments tout the company’s “Aquacurrent Science” as a skin care technology “that helps reverse the look of lines and wrinkles.” According to promotional material, the technology was inspired by the discovery of aquaporin water channels (pores that conduct water in and out of cells) for which Dr. Peter Agre won a Nobel Prize in chemistry.

Meanwhile, from L’Oréal comes Skin Genesis. The line includes a gel cleanser that offers “cellular level cleansing,” according to magazine advertisements.

Are marketers trying to dupe us into buying products with claims we can’t understand? According to representatives from L’Oreal and P & G Beauty, their products do work. Olay Aquacurrent Science includes products that use a form of vitamin B to increase water concentration in the outermost layer of the skin. In other words: it helps moisturize the skin. “Cellular level cleansing” in the  L’Oréal Skin Genesis line,” refers to the “action of promoting cell turnover at the surface level”. In other words: it helps exfoliate the skin.

“There is a tremendous increase in the number of products that use DNA, growth factor and stem cells in labels or marketing claims,” said Taya Tomasello, a senior beauty analyst at Mintel International Group Ltd., a market research firm. This year, beauty companies introduced 311 face products that promise to work on skin at a “cellular level” compared with 116 face products that make more generic anti-aging claims, according to Mintel’s new products database.

“You see ‘cellular’ and you think, ‘this is really going to help with my anti-aging,’ ” Ms. Tomasello said.
Medical-sounding affixes like bio-, micro- and pro- also abound (think biologic, microscopic and probiotics). Some terms found last week at cosmetics retailers and in fashion magazines included: “biomolecular” eye cream; “microtechnology bio active” foundation; “pro-collagen” serum; “microsmoothing” face serum; and a “bio-stimulating” night cream with “microlift.”

Industry analysts, scientists and consumers interviewed for this article offered a variety of theories for the increased use of such jargon: it lends face creams the air of high technology; it helps distinguish one product from a myriad of others; it helps justify the price tag.

Laure Rittié, a research investigator in dermatology at the University of Michigan, said that simple skin physiology could account for the fancy microbiological-sounding claims on some beauty products. She explained that dead cells compose the very top layer of skin and that any product (even a washcloth or sandpaper) that exfoliates the dead cells, exposing underlying skin cells, might call itself regenerative, multicellular or biologically stimulating.

So what’s the take away from this? A marketer’s job is to sell us their product. And if they pepper their products with words we don’t understand, the overall effect is to convey youth, beauty, science, positivity and renewal, and to get us to buy. Be prepared. Understand the ingredients and the science behind the claims and you won’t be fooled by slick ads with terminology you can’t understand. 

Read the full article here.

Essential Fatty Acids and Dry Skin

Dry skin, flaking, itching, cracking, and even bleeding… these are some of the symptoms that skin can exhibit with the more serious cases leading to eczema. In severe cases of eczema, itching can lead to infection. According to the National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Disease, up to 30% of the U.S. population is affected by eczema. Unfortunately, there’s no known cure and the objective of most treatments is to simply provide relief from the symptoms.

There is a substantial amount of evidence from clinical studies that essential fatty acids (EFAs) are an effective treatment. Through both topical application and consumption, they help to maintain cell structure and function keeping skin moisturized, smooth and healthy. EFAs have also been shown to have an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin, providing a level of relief from symptoms associated with eczema.

What Are Essential Fatty Acids?

Essential fatty acids are valuable because they help keep skin healthy. They cannot be produced from within the body and therefore must be delivered through a person’s diet or through topical solutions. The two EFAs are truly essential include Linoleic Acid (LA) and Alpha Linolenic Acid (ALA). LA and ALA are used to produce other fatty acids, which play specific roles in the maintenance of good health. The fatty acids derived from ALA and LA include Gamma Linolenic Acid, Eicosapentaenoic Acid (EPA), and Docosahexaenoic Acid (DHA).

Decades Of Research

Beginning in the 1930’s, scientists noted a link between a deficit in Omega-6 fatty acids and inflammation of the skin. Studies by Burr and Burr, as well as those by AE Hanson, proved that there was a correlation between atopic eczema and a shortage of particular fatty acids. Placebo-controlled experiments were conducted starting in the 1950’s to test the results of topical steroids containing Omega-6 fatty acids. The results supported earlier findings: the topical application of certain fatty acids inhibited the symptoms of eczema. Further research during the 1980’s showed that administering linoleic acid (through evening primrose oil) to adults with atopic eczema also had an anti-inflammatory effect on their symptoms.

Relieving Symptoms Of Eczema

By providing moisture to the skin, essential fatty acids prevent dryness and flaking. Patients can find relief from severe itching and other symptoms by taking dietary supplements and applying creams that contain these fatty acids. The FDA has approved the use of topical prescriptions such as Protopic for treating symptoms related to eczema. Aside from a doctor’s prescription, here are 3 alternative solutions to consider:

Thorne Fish Oil - These gel caps, containing an Omega-3 fatty acid, make an ideal dietary supplement.

Sharmani Pillay Daily Essentials Supplements</a> - These supplements provide a daily dose of vitamins, minerals ane EFAs essential to overall wellness and skin health. 

Lipikar Lipid Replenishing Cream - This soothing, moisturizing formulation delivers essential fatty acids to the skin, replenishing dry skin with soothing lipids. It repairs the skin’s protective barrier from irritants that can trigger symptoms related to eczema.

How To Remove Tattoos

The permanence of a tattoo is usually a person’s last concern when having it inked on their skin. Years later, many people regret their decision and consider having them removed. In fact, according to a 2004 survey by the American Academy of Dermatology, 17% of those who have tattoos want to get rid of them. There are several ways in which to approach their removal and some methods are more effective than others.

First, a quick overview regarding how tattoos work. When performed by a professional, the ink is distributed on the skin evenly, making removal easier. When performed by a novice, the distribution is more sporadic with different concentrations of ink throughout. Also, as tattoos age, the ink spreads and seeps more deeply into the skin. That makes their removal more difficult. Today, I’ll briefly explain the different approaches to getting rid of tattoos and what you can expect from each of them.

Dermabrasions And Chemical Peels

Dermabrasions can be effective for getting rid of most of the ink as long as the tattoo has been professionally-placed and is relatively new. Once the ink has seeped into the fat under the skin, it’s unlikely a dermabrasion will be able to remove it. Chemical peels are occasionally used, too. The drawback is that there is a risk of mild scarring. Plus, once the ink has migrated, a peel is ineffective.

Laser Removal Of Tattoos

Laser treatments are growing in popularity. A dermatologist or surgeon uses a laser to remove the pigment. The wavelength and width of the laser applied depends upon the color of the tattoo. Black ink is easier to remove than green ink, and both require different wavelengths.

While laser treatments are usually effective, there are a few drawbacks. First, they’re comparatively expensive. It’s not uncommon for the complete removal of one tattoo to cost a few thousand dollars. Second, most tattoos require at least a few treatments and large tattoos can require up to six. Third, the treatments can be mildly painful. Anesthesia is often applied to the affected area, but the discomfort can last a few days.

Why Surgery Is Often Necessary

Even with laser treatments, tattoos can be difficult to remove. If the ink has migrated deep beneath the skin, surgical excision may be necessary to completely get rid of it. For smaller tattoos, the procedure involves the surgeon removing the part of the skin that contains the ink. Then, the area is stitched closed. Larger tattoos require a more complex procedure, involving skin grafts to cover the affected area.

There are a number of creams that are advertised as “tattoo removers.” While they may be able to mildly reduce their visibility, there are no clinical studies which prove they can eliminate them. Given how tattoos work and the process by which ink migrates over time, it’s unlikely these creams can match the effectiveness of laser treatments and surgical excision.

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Is Idebenone an Effective Antioxidant?

There’s been a surge of interest in an artificial antioxidant called idebenone. It’s a derivative of a natural antioxidant called Coenzyme Q10 (also known as ubiquinone) which is produced within the body. As interest in idebenone has increased, cosmetic manufacturers have begun to include the ingredient within their products. But, does idebenone actually work to reduce signs of premature aging with the same efficacy as proven antioxidants such as vitamin C?

Let’s look at the evidence for using idebenone in cosmetic formulations to determine if it might be worth considering.

Clinical Data To Support Idebenone

Idebenone was introduced to the public in a product called Prevage, which is marketed by Allergan. Prevage is advertised as an antioxidant-based anti-wrinkle formulation. The evidence to prove idebenone’s efficacy involves a study which seemed to prove that idebenone was more effective as an antioxidant than vitamin C. And while this may well be true, this particular study had 3 significant limitations. 

First, it was conducted using a very small test group of participants (30). Statistically, the results were inconclusive. Second, the study compared equal concentrations of idebenone and vitamin C (1%). In effective topical formulations, vitamin C is used in higher concentrations (5%) - you have to compare like with like. Third, there is substantial evidence that products which include a blend of multiple antioxidants (for example, vitamins C, E, and ferulic acid) are more potent than those relying just on idebenone.

This is not to suggest that idebenone is an ineffective compound. In fact, the limited data that exists implies that it works as advertised. However, there is a significant lack of data to support the early test results and more studies are needed. 

Skincare is About More Than Antioxidants

While antioxidants are an important part of any skincare regimen, it’s important to remember that they’re not the only ingredient that contribute to healthy and youthful skin. Gentle cleansers, topical exfoliants, retinoids and well formulated sunscreens should also be integrated into your routine.

So, what does this mean for products that include idebenone? As an antioxidant, the compound shows promise in slowing the oxidation process of free radicals, and reducing fine lines and wrinkles. However, until more data is available, the results should be considered inconclusive. What’s more, as a shield from UV radiation, tests have shown idebenone to be ineffective.