Pharmacymix.com, Skin Care Pharmacy and Blog Specializing in Anthelios and Mexoryl Sunscreens

Licorice – An Active Ingredient That Can Lighten Skin

There are several applications for licorice extract; it has been used for flavoring foods and drinks as well as reducing symptoms related to mouth ulcers and coughing. In addition, it is an adaptogen which makes it useful in supporting the body during situations where the immune system may be compromised. Due to a compound within the extract called glabridin, it also inhibits the production of melanin. As a result, it is often applied as a skin lightening agent. Today, I’ll explain how licorice extract can be used topically as a skin lightener and why it’s effective as an active ingredient.

How Licorice Lightens Skin

The reason why licorice extract, as an active ingredient, is effective for lightening the skin is due to the compound glabridin. It suppresses pigmentation by stalling melanin production. Often, the skin can become discolored due to conditions such as melasma and chloasma. Plus, long-term exposure to the sun can result in age spots and hyperpigmentation. When their effects are visible - especially in the areas around the face and eyes - topical formulations that include licorice extract can help reduce the variances in skin tone.

Some skin types are especially sensitive to other lightening agents such as hydroquinone and tretinoin. While both are highly effective, they can cause irritation and sensitivity for some people. Topical application of products containing licorice extract has been shown to have few side effects, and incidents of allergic reactions, irritation, and redness are rare. This is likely due to the natural anti-inflammatory properties of glabridin.

Basics Of Glabridin

Glabridin is directly responsible for inhibiting melanin production. It accomplishes this by hampering tyrosinase activity, the enzyme responsible for producing melanin. Over a decade ago, tests were performed on guinea pigs in which a 0.5% concentration of glabridin was applied topically. The results showed that pigmentation induced by UVB light was inhibited. Glabridin has also shown to have potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Topical Formulations With Licorice Extract

There are a number of skin lightening solutions that contain licorice extract as an active ingredient to reduce discoloration. If you have sensitive skin and cannot tolerate ingredients such as hydroquinone, retinoids or even Vitamin C, then you may want to consider trying products that contain licorice extract. Following are 3 solutions that will brighten your skin tone and more:

Credentials Glycolic Face Creme - This formulation not only includes licorice as a skin-brightening ingredient, but it also contains an 8% glycolic acid as an exfoliant, as well as a number of helpful antioxidants.

Credentials Fresh Facial Cleanser - A lightweight cleanser that uses vitamins A and E to nourish your skin while licorice extract delivers lightening and antioxidant benefits.

Credentials Eye Nourisher - This complex moisturizer includes several antioxidants and ingredients to provide hydration. It also includes licorice extract, Magnesium Ascorbic Phosphate, and ascorbic acid to gently lighten your skin.

Can Emu Oil Reduce The Signs Of Aging?

Individuals are always on the lookout for ways to keep their skin youthful and vibrant looking. And if you turn to the drugstore, the department store and even the internet, there certainly isn’t a shortage of new products delivered in enticing packaging all promising to eliminate the signs of aging. Because of the way the skin care industry is regulated, it’s often difficult for consumers to know which products are effective and which are not. One of the latest ingredients to show up in anti-aging cosmetic products is emu oil. It comes from the fat deposits of the emu, an Australian bird.

Today, I’ll describe its use as an emollient as well as a possible solution for getting rid of wrinkles, fine lines, and other signs of aging. Plus, I’ll explain why like many cosmetics ingredients, emu oil might not be as miraculous as you may have been led to believe.

How Emu Oil Is Used

Emu oil contains Vitamins E and A to deliver antioxidant action and it has been shown to reduce inflammation.  In addition, it contains fatty acids, which may have medicinal benefit. Cosmetic companies claim that topical application of emu oil offers all of the benefits of a moisturizer with greater skin penetration than mineral oil. Plus, it doesn’t block pores, nor is it irritating to the skin. So, emu oil is marketed as a moisturizing ingredient.

While emu oil can penetrate the stratum corneum barrier and moisturize the skin this doesn’t mean that it can reduce signs of aging. Wrinkles and fine lines are the result of a break down in collagen and elastin. Unless emu oil can encourage the synthesis of both, there’s little it can do to have a dramatic effect on them.

Lack Of Significant Research

Interestingly, most of the research that exists demonstrating the effectiveness of emu oil has been performed by scientists in Australia, home of the emu. While this doesn’t suggest that their studies are flawed, it would be valuable if additional research from other countries supported their earlier findings. For now, we’re forced to rely upon a couple of double-blind studies and the questionable claims offered by cosmetic manufacturers.

Proven Anti-Wrinkle Solutions

After more research has been performed on emu oil with regards to its efficacy in treating wrinkles and fine lines, it may become the next generation of anti-aging ingredients. Until then, it’s best to use topical formulations that have undergone rigorous testing. Following are 3 solutions that will help reduce signs of aging in your skin:

Credentials Botanical Bio Peptide Concentrate - Matrixyl (studies have shown that matrixyl can stimulate collagen production) plus moisturizing ingredients have been shown to reduce deep surface wrinkles by 68% in a 2 month period.

Green Cream - Retinol benefits skin in many ways including unclogging pores, reversing sun damage, stimulating collagen production and increasing cell turnover.�

Topical Vitamin C: Different Forms And Their Results

Vitamin C has been included in skin care products for many years. Its positive effects on skin are supported by many years of research and clinical studies, which have been conducted by independent labs as well as the cosmetics industry. What you may not realize is that Vitamin C is available in several different forms and that not all are equal. The way in which it’s stored and its concentration within a given formulation can also affect how well it works when applied. Today, I’ll quickly review the benefits of using products that contain vitamin C. I’ll also describe the different types and which might be right for you.

Benefits Of Vitamin C

As an antioxidant, vitamin C can help prevent the spread of free radical damage. However, it’s important to realize that there are many antioxidants. Even though cosmetic manufacturers often imply in their advertising that vitamin C is the best for inhibiting free radicals, there’s very little research that supports the claim. Rather, we know that it’s one of many powerful antioxidants. We also know that the vitamin can help to eliminate dark spots, brighten skin, offer protection from the sun’s damaging UV rays as well as stimulate the production of new collagen fibers.

Types Of Vitamin C

As noted above, Vitamin C is available in several forms and some forms work better than others. Different forms include L-ascorbic acid, vitamin C ester, ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. L-ascorbic acid is effective but highly sensitive to degradation upon exposure to light and oxygen. It must be stabilized as found in forms such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. When it’s stored properly and applied in concentrations ranging from 3 to 10%, it does benefit skin.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, or MAP, can also contribute to the production of collagen. With a high enough concentration, it can be used as a lightening agent on the skin and tends to have more stability than L-ascorbic acid. Topical vitamin C ester can deliver powerful antioxidant properties and helps build collagen fibers. And research has shown that both ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl glucoside can also benefit the skin. However, ascorbyl palmitate is thought to be less effective for collagen synthesis.

Topical Formulations

Because there are several types of vitamin C, and their efficacy is based upon the concentration used, how they’re stored, and the stability of each, they’re easy to confuse. All of them can deliver benefits to your skin. Following are 3 stable and effective topical solutions that can add value to your skin care routine:

UltimaSkin Potent 12% C Serum - With a 12% L-ascorbic acid concentration, this serum provides protection from UV rays and free radicals while encouraging collagen synthesis.

Credentials Face Firming Complex - This formulation contains vitamin C ester to encourage the production of collagen fibers, reducing wrinkles and fine lines in the process.

Lustra AF Cream 4% Hydroquinone - This topical solution can be used to help eliminate skin discoloration, providing uniformity in tone. It includes Magnesium 1-Ascorbyl Phosphate NF to help repair sun-damaged skin.

When To Apply Sunscreen In Your Beauty Routine

Cosmetic manufacturers have increasingly included sun filtering agents within their products. So it’s not surprising that people assume that using such products might provide enough protection from both UVA and UVB rays. In general, makeup and other cosmetics that include sunscreens are not adequate for protecting your skin from the sun. While they certainly are beneficial, they shouldn’t be considered a replacement for a broad spectrum sunscreen that protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Today, I’ll explain how to combine sunscreen with your normal beauty routine to ensure your skin receives adequate protection.

Why Sunscreen Is Essential

Using a sunscreen that is not merely a portion of a cosmetic product is vital for filtering UVA and UVB rays. Without its protection, the skin can sustain sun damage, leading to premature aging, wrinkles, and even skin cancer. While makeup, foundations, and other cosmetics offer a level of protection, it’s not enough. Plus, using cosmetics with high SPF ratings doesn’t necessarily mean that you’re receiving protection from UVA rays. The SPF is only a measure of UVB protection, so you could be left vulnerable to long term skin damage from UVA rays. 

Applying Sunscreen And Makeup

Sunscreens and sunblocks should be applied in the right order with your makeup and other skin care products to maximize their efficacy. Whether you rely upon a physical blocking sunscreen that contains zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, or a chemical type using filters such as Mexoryl SX or Mexoryl XL, it should be applied early on in your routine. Sunscreen filters work by either sitting on top of the skin or by being absorbed into the top layer. If you apply after your foundation or powders, those cosmetics may prevent absorption of the sunscreen.

A general rule of thumb when using a number of skin care products is to apply in order of lightest to heaviest texture, waiting a few minutes between applications. Serums, which tend to be very lightweight, are applied first, followed by lotions, then creams, and finally makeup. This order of application not only allows for absorption of ingredients, it also prevents a lighter product from dissolving a heavier one underneath, resulting in a potential mess on your face. If you use a moisturizer and a sunscreen, apply the product with the lighter consistency first, wait a few minutes to allow for absorption, then apply the second. Finally, apply your makeup.

Choosing The Right Formulations

A lot of cosmetic products (along with some sunscreens) lead you to believe that you are getting protection from the whole range of UVA and UVB rays. Unfortunately, that’s not always the case. If your sunscreen doesn’t contain adequate levels of zinc oxide, Mexoryl SX, Mexoryl XL, Tinosorb M, Tinosorb S or stabilized avobenzone, you may not be at risk for damage from UVA rays.

Following are 3 sunscreens that do deliver:

Anthelios XL SPF 60 Cream - This sunscreen includes La Roche Posay’s filtering system that combines titanium dioxide, Mexoryl SX, and Mexoryl XL plus other filters to offer the highest level of protection available from a wide range of UVA and UVB rays.

Fallene Cotz SPF 58  - This formulation uses titanium dioxide and zinc oxide to offer broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection in a base ideal for children or those with sensitive skin.

La Roche Posay Hydraphase UV with SPF 30 - This moisturizer has been formulated with Mexoryl SX to provide protection from the sun’s UV rays while hydrating your skin.